There’s not a single soul in Assam who doesn't love pitha. Among the many delightful delicacies of Assam, the Assamese Pitha stands out as a true embodiment of tradition and taste. These rice-based sweets, prepared with love and precision, hold a special place in Assam's culinary tapestry.
Pitha-making is a cherished art, often passed down through generations, with each family adding its unique touch. These delectable treats are a significant part of Assamese festivals, especially during Magh Bihu, the harvest festival, where families come together to celebrate and savour the flavours of tradition.
The base of Assamese Pitha is typically rice flour, mixed with water to form a smooth batter. This batter is then skillfully crafted into various shapes and sizes, reflecting the creativity and expertise of the person making it. The fillings are where Assamese Pitha truly shines. Grated coconut, jaggery, and sesame seeds are generously used to create a symphony of flavours. Each bite unravels a perfect blend of sweetness, nuttiness, and the unique essence of Assamese culinary heritage.
Some types of pithas are Til pitha, Narikol pitha, Ghila pitha, Sunga pitha, Tel pitha,
Bhapotdiya pitha, Kholasapori pitha, etc. Notable among Assam's Pitha varieties is "Tilor Pitha," made with sesame seeds and jaggery. The earthy aroma of sesame seeds and the natural sweetness of jaggery create a delightful combination that captures the essence of Assamese hospitality. Another favourite is "Tekeli Pitha," a cylindrical-shaped rice flour Pitha with a jaggery filling, providing a delightful surprise with every bite.
However, in modern times, we do see a lot of fusion with traditional pitha. Fusion cuisine is like a delicious cultural dance, where traditional and innovative flavors twirl together on the plate. It's not about replacing what you love; it's about introducing your taste buds to a whole new world of delicious possibilities. Yet, this culinary adventure comes with a gentle reminder: balance is the key. Too much innovation and you might lose the soul of the dish.
Imagine a Chocolate Til Pitha or a Blueberry-infused Tekeli Pitha—these modern interpretations would definitely cancel out the traditional and simplicity of pitha. With a growing emphasis on health and wellness, Assamese pitha recipes are evolving to cater to diverse dietary preferences. Whole grain flours, natural sweeteners, and nutrient-rich ingredients find their way into pitha preparations, ensuring a healthier indulgence without compromising on the authentic taste.
Chefs are exploring creative ways to plate and serve pitha, transforming them into edible artworks. Intricate designs, vibrant colours, and stylized arrangements elevate the visual appeal, making the traditional pitha a feast for the eyes as well.
MasterChef India finalist Santa Sarmah said, “Modernism is indeed essential, adapting to changing times while preserving our roots. While altering the colour of pithas is acceptable, I believe the flavour and shape should remain true to their origins. For instance, the timeless shape of the till pitha should be retained for familiarity. Natural colours, like beetroot, can enhance without compromising authenticity.’
Some traditional pitha recipes have been lost, but reviving them is crucial. I experimented with a forgotten recipe, rongalau pitha, giving it a contemporary twist. Shaping it like a pumpkin and incorporating coconut, jaggery, mawa, and a layer of till provided a refreshing take. Rediscovering these lost recipes adds richness to our culinary heritage.
Maintaining the essence of traditional dishes is vital. While plating and incorporating dips offer room for creativity, altering the fundamental aspects risks losing the authenticity we cherish. Fusion can be delightful when respecting the roots of our culinary traditions.”
The love for our culinary heritage shines through in her words, reflecting a genuine appreciation for the delicate dance between tradition and modernity. The idea of altering the colour of pithas, while keeping their essence intact, is like giving a fresh coat of paint to a cherished family heirloom—refreshing, yet respectful.
The journey of rediscovering a lost recipe, the rongalau pitha, feels like a culinary adventure filled with nostalgia. Shaping it like a pumpkin and infusing it with coconut, jaggery, mawa, and a layer of till is akin to a chef's artistic brushstroke, adding a contemporary twist while preserving the soul of the dish. It's a heartfelt attempt to reconnect with flavours that might have faded with time.
The commitment to maintaining the authenticity of traditional dishes is like safeguarding a family recipe passed down through generations. It's a sentiment echoed in kitchens where stories are shared over simmering pots. The caution against altering fundamental aspects is a plea to protect the roots, ensuring that the essence of each dish remains a link to cultural heritage.
Behind the scenes, chefs become storytellers, weaving narratives with every ingredient. They understand the language and the poetry of flavours, and the importance of keeping traditions alive. In this context, one of the renowned chefs of Assam, Atul Lahkar said, “Yes, during Magh Bihu, we often witness a fusion of our traditional pithas. However, it would be wonderful to adhere to our authentic pithas and larus as they symbolize our rich tradition. Personally, as a chef, I aspire to uphold the legacy of these original pithas and extend their influence beyond borders.”
Atul Lahkar's sentiment beautifully captures a chef's dedication to preserving the essence of Assamese culinary traditions. His recognition of the fusion during Magh Bihu reveals an awareness of the dynamic nature of food culture, yet his desire to adhere to authentic pithas and larus reflects a deep-rooted commitment to heritage. As a chef, Lahkar's aspiration to uphold the legacy of original pithas and extend their influence beyond borders speaks to the power of food as a cultural ambassador.
While conversing with some home chefs, they expressed their preference for sticking to the old traditional way of making pitha. One of them said, "Every Bihu, we prepare different types of pitha, laru, and jolpan. From soaking bora saul to grinding it in a dheki, and then preparing it in the kitchen souka is what makes us happy. Yes, it's tiring, but the end result is worth it.”
Nandini, who runs a pitha stall in Chandmari, said, “Infusing modernity with pitha is good but to a certain limit. For example, using sugar in place of jaggery is fine, but replacing jaggery with something entirely different is not. Our culture would be lost.”
With modernisation comes the change and modifications in the traditional ways of preparation. However, it's necessary to keep in mind the originality. Experimenting with pitha is also okay, but ensuring to preserve the original taste is crucial.
