As Assam gears up to celebrate Bohag Bihu, the rising cost of traditional attire like muga silk mekhela chadors casts a shadow over the festivities
Little Maina is very happy. She is going with her parents to the market.
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“Papa, I need a new dress,” says Maina as they walk down the vibrant streets of Ganeshguri. The streets are filled with joy and excitement, and there is a festive atmosphere all around.
Just then, her mother says with a smile, “We’ll get gur (molasses) and chira (flattened rice) first.
Wondering why? Yes, it’s the time of Bohag Bihu—also known as Rongali Bihu—which marks the beginning of the Assamese New Year and the arrival of spring. Falling in the cheerful month of April, Bihu is steeped in rituals, customs, and traditions that reflect the spirit of Assamese culture.
These days, the markets of Guwahati have become a major attraction. From garments to gamusa, dhol, xorai, and japi, a wide variety of items are available. Across the city, colorful pandals are being set up for cultural functions that blend both traditional and modern elements.
As the family strolls through the market, Maina's eyes light up. “Papa, I need this!” she exclaims, pointing at a beautiful mekhela chador displayed in a shop window. The shop is filled with similar dresses in different styles.
“Ok, ok,” says Tarun, her father. Maina is thrilled—it will be her first husori (where groups go from house to house singing and dancing) wearing a mekhela chador.
The shopkeeper brings out a collection of mekhela chadors, from mixed pat to tassar, semi-pat to staple, polyester pat, and resi. Maina points to a gleaming golden mekhela.
“That’s muga silk, my dear,” the shopkeeper says.
“Papa, this one… it’s so nice… I want it,” pleads Maina.
“It costs ₹26,000,” the shopkeeper adds.
Little Maina gazes at the dress with a heavy heart. Her father, unable to afford it, buys her a more affordable one. Her dream of wearing a muga silk mekhela chador remains unfulfilled.
This isn’t just Maina’s story. Many families face similar situations. The prices of traditional mekhela chadors have risen significantly, impacting the budgets of middle-class households.
Ranjeet Deka, Additional Director of Textiles and Handlooms, recalls his childhood:
“I have very fond memories of Bihu… I still remember my grandmother making pitha and coconut sweets. She used to weave a handmade gamusa for me and a chador for my sister. We used to go husori singing door-to-door. But those days are gone. Everything has changed now.”
When asked about the surge in prices, Deka says, “Yes, prices have gone up drastically. You can compare muga silk to gold now. A pure muga mekhela chador can cost around ₹30,000. The main reasons are the high cost of raw material and environmental challenges. Silkworms breed in the open, and only a few cocoons survive due to changing weather and rising air pollution. Meanwhile, demand is soaring but production has dropped. Naturally, prices are going up.”
He adds, “To meet demand, manufacturers are offering mixed-material alternatives—pat, tassar, resi cotton—that resemble muga and are more affordable.”
Muga silk, exclusive to Assam, is more than just a fabric—it’s a symbol of Assamese identity, pride, and heritage. Known for its natural golden sheen and durability, it is produced by the Antheraea assamensis silkworm, which feeds only on specific host plants like som and soalu. The cultivation of muga is a delicate, time-consuming process that requires precision and care, handed down through generations of weavers.
However, with climate change, deforestation, and increasing pollution, the survival rate of muga silkworms has dropped sharply. These environmental shifts, coupled with reduced availability of skilled weavers and a lack of infrastructural support in rural areas, have created a supply crunch. At the same time, urban demand for traditional garments during festivals like Bihu has skyrocketed.
In response, government agencies and cooperatives are now promoting eco-friendly sericulture practices and mechanised weaving techniques. Yet, many artisans feel the cultural soul is being diluted in the process. Handwoven pieces still command respect and nostalgia, but their high costs have turned them into luxury items, not daily wear.
As Assam gears up to celebrate Bohag Bihu, the rising cost of traditional attire like muga silk mekhela chadors casts a shadow over the festivities. For many families, the emotional connection to heritage now comes with a financial burden. While technology and synthetic alternatives offer some relief, the dream of adorning pure muga silk remains out of reach for many. As cultural pride meets economic reality, the hope is that sustainable solutions and government initiatives can help preserve the tradition without pricing it out of the hands of the people it belongs to.
