The air across the state thickens, mingling with the earthy aromas of toasted sesame and burning bamboos heralding the onset of Magh Bihu, or Bhogali Bihu, a harvest festival that goes way beyond mere celebration. It’s a time to honour abundance, community, and the age-old bond between the land and its people
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Derived from the word bhog, meaning feasting or delight, Bhogali Bihu celebrates the rich culinary traditions of Assam. In the very core, it is a tribute to the fertility of the land and a spirit of coming together. A symphony of gastronomic delight and flavours hums through every kitchen in Assam as they transform into bustling arenas of culinary artistry during this period. Composed of every dish at this time is a tale of family bonds, cultural histories, and agricultural roots of the region.
The culinary legacy is vibrant in the truest sense, where practiced hands prepare laroos—sweet spheres made from coconut, sesame, puffed rice, and jaggery. These treats, perfected over generations, are a testament to Assam’s culinary ingenuity. The iconic pithas, or rice cakes, are another highlight of the festival. Whether it’s the sesame-stuffed til pitha, the golden-fried ghila pitha, or the steamed tekeli pitha, each variety carries with it a piece of history and tradition. More than just sweets, the savoury dishes of the festival offer a rich exploration into Assamese cuisine: slow-cooked duck or pork curries infused with aromatic spices fill the air with the mouth-watering fragrance; freshwater fish, more often than not caught from local rivers, is grilled over open flames, smoke from it adding to the gastronomic organoleptic feast.
The celebration also highlights the diversity within Assam’s ethnic tapestry. For instance, the Karbi people, residing in the central highlands, bring their own unique flavours to the festival. Their harvest celebrations, Chomangkan, feature wak, a fermented rice beer that flows freely during the festivities.
Alongside it, they prepare chungkai, a bamboo-cooked pork delicacy, and tungtap, a robust fermented fish dish.
The Karbi people, residing in the central highlands, bring their own unique flavours to the festival. Their harvest celebrations, Chomangkan, feature wak, a fermented rice beer that flows freely during the festivities. Alongside it, they prepare chungkai, a bamboo-cooked pork delicacy, and tungtap, a robust fermented fish dish.
Similarly, the Mising tribe, who lives along the banks of the Brahmaputra, celebrates Ali-Aye Ligang, their own harvest festival. Apong, a handmade rice beer, accompanied by dishes like ngamkin, a fish stew enriched with herbs and vegetables, and purang apin, rice cooked delicately in leaves are a must to try. The diversity of these traditions underscores the richness of Bhogali Bihu as a celebration that unites while honouring individuality.
As the festivities unfold, the Meji bonfire becomes a symbol of renewal. The offerings made to the fire—grains, sesame seeds, and other harvested goods—are not just acts of gratitude but also of hope for prosperity for the times ahead. It is a festival that transcends the boundaries of time and space, connecting generations and communities through the universal language of food and fellowship. As the flames subside, leaving behind a smouldering landscape and the lingering aromas, a sense of peaceful contentment envelops the community. The shared meals, the laughter around the bonfires, and the warmth of companionship linger in the hearts of the people, providing solace and strength for the months to come.
(All views and opinions expressed are author’s own)
