It was a foggy November morning. As the ferry traversed the Brahmaputra's turbid waters, I scrutinised the horizon through the dense fog, where a silhouette began to materialise.
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A stranger tapped my shoulder; clad in my life jacket, that looked more like an accessory than safety gear, I turned around to inspect.
“Are you from Nat Geo?” he asked, his voice brimming with curiosity. I smiled, shaking my head, explaining I was here on other official work.
Just then, my friend nudged me, “Look ahead. That’s the place.” And there it was, Majuli—the heart of Assam’s cultural landscape—revealing itself for the first time. That was in 2013. A decade later, at the dawn of 2024, I found myself returning, and Majuli’s charm had only grown deeper.
Majuli, the world's largest river island, is nothing short of a mystical land, a place that speaks in the rhythms of the Brahmaputra and resonates with centuries-old traditions. Nestled in the waters of Assam, this paradise is a cultural tapestry, home to historic monasteries, traditional crafts, tribal cuisines, and nature’s marvels.
Now, with the iconic Raas Festival just around the corner—celebrated each year on the full moon of November—the island is soon to burst into an artistic blaze of color, music, and devotion. The festivities draw travelers from near and far, and anyone lucky enough to witness it finds Majuli permanently etched into their memories.
Raas Festival: A Reverie in Time!
The Raas Festival is Majuli’s soul, a living tribute to the life and legends of Lord Krishna. Each ‘xatra’ (a religious and cultural center in Assam, that is associated with the Ekasarana tradition of Vaishnavism), here becomes a stage for bhaonas —traditional Assamese dance-dramas, that re-enact Krishna’s adventures in Vrindavan and Mathura.
Majuli’s centres of worship, such as Dakhinpat, Aauniati, and Samuguri, are like ancient storytellers, steeped in devotion and history. The Samuguri ‘xatra’, known for its beautiful masks, transforms each performer into a vibrant, larger-than-life character from a bygone era. With every beat of the nagara (kettle drum) & khol (two faced cylindrical wooden drum) and with every traditional dance step, the island seems to merge with the mythical realms, bridging the spiritual and the earthly.
Majuli's Raas Leela Festival that unfolds in the third week of November every year, was once exclusive to 'Xatras' monks and saints. But now, locals and tourists alike join the revelry, stretching the traditional three-day customary celebrations into a week-long festivity, complete with melodic renditions, rhythmic chants, folk dances, puppet shows, and dramatic plays that bring Lord Krishna’s life to stage.
Participants often observe austerity beforehand to heighten their focus. Key enactments include Krishna's birth, Gokul escapades, and conquests over demons like the giant stork Bakasura, the wicked demoness Putana and his maternal uncle, the devilish Kansa. The festival showcases the classical Sattriya dance at various 'xatras', blending neo-Vaishnavite and Assamese tribal cultures in a remarkable spectacle.
A Taste of Tribal Cuisine
No journey to Majuli is complete without savoring its unique cuisine. The island is home to several indigenous communities, each with its distinct flavors and food traditions. From hearty non-vegetarian dishes to satisfying vegetarian fare, there’s something for every palate. I remember diving into meals that showcased the true essence of Assam’s indigenous flavors—sour, spicy, earthy, and bold. Tribal dishes are often prepared with bamboo shoots, fish, or meat smoked to perfection over open fires. Whether it’s the tangy masor tenga (sour fish curry) or a simple serving of the aromatic joha rice with locally sourced greens like dhekiya (fiddlehead ferns), every bite here tells a story of the land.
The Mising Tribe: Guardians of Heritage
The Mising people, who have called Majuli home for generations, are the heart of this island’s cultural fabric. Living in stilted bamboo huts that stand strong even during the river’s monsoon swells, they embody a resilient way of life. As you walk through their villages, you’re invited into their world—watching as they weave traditional garments, fish in the river, and share tales passed down through generations. For the more adventurous, you may even get a hands-on experience in fishing, joining the locals as they cast nets into the river’s shimmering waters.
A Paradise for Bird Lovers
Majuli isn’t just a cultural treasure trove; it’s a sanctuary for nature lovers. Each winter, migratory birds from across the world arrive, joining the native birdlife in a harmonious dance over the wetlands. The sight of these birds (egrets, cormorants, ducks, cranes, storks, etc.) is magical, and for ornithologists or even the occasional birdwatcher, it’s a rare treat. With the island’s unique biodiversity of wetlands & vast expanse of water bodies, Majuli becomes a paradise where nature flourishes, drawing photographers and enthusiasts alike who come to capture the serene beauty of its waters and skies.
A Network of Roads: New Pathways Through Majuli
When I first visited, getting to Majuli was only possible by ferry. But the island’s connectivity has vastly improved over the last decade, making it easier than ever to access this cultural gem. Now, one can even reach Majuli by road, an amazing transformation for an island, ‘supposedly’ surrounded on all sides, by the powerful Brahmaputra.
I experienced this change firsthand, while traveling from Duliajan in Dibrugarh district through Dhemaji and North Lakhimpur districts to Majuli. Built sturdily between the Subansiri river and the mighty Brahmaputra, on the north eastern part of Majuli near Jengraimukh, is the ‘Kherkatiya’ bridge. For the knowledge of everyone, Majuli is not surrounded by the Brahmaputra from all sides. It is formed by the Brahmaputra River to the south and east, the Subansiri River to the west, and an anabranch of the Brahmaputra River called Kherkutia Xuti, to the north.
Thus, heading into Majuli from North Lakhimpur, this northeast access point offers a seamless route onto the island. Google Maps effortlessly guided us along well-paved roads, a far cry from the winding, less reliable paths of years past. The government’s efforts in developing infrastructure, have opened Majuli to new horizons of exploration, preserving the island’s natural beauty while bringing it closer to the world.
The Ferry Ride: An Experience in Itself
While that ‘Kherkatiya’ bridge is a remarkable improvement, the traditional ferry route from Nimati Ghat in Jorhat still holds a unique charm for travelers. Boarding a ferry on the Brahmaputra is more than just a mode of transport—it’s an experience that opens up panoramic views of the river and offers a peaceful transition from the busy mainland to Majuli’s slower rhythms. The hour-long ride provides moments of reflection as you watch the island emerge on the horizon, a patchwork of green alongside the vastness of the Brahmaputra. As you explore the river, stay alert for rare sightings of Gangetic River Dolphins (Xihu) and captivating Ruddy Shelduck duck duos (Sakoi Sakua) on the ever-changing sandbars or chaporis.
But, buckle up for a ticketing rollercoaster!
Digital ticketing can be a crapshoot due to connectivity issues with the Directorate of Inland Water Transport's website (https://asiwt.in/). So, play it safe and try to grab your tickets at the ghat itself – where technology is aced by old-school reliability. There is also an Online Ferry Ticket Booking App, by the Inland Water Transport Department but the experience still has an organic feel. Digital ticket booking is an exercise in patience!
But the new Ro-Pax ferry service are an improved version of the river transport available to Majuli and must be tried out by travel enthusiast. Ro-Pax is the acronym of Roll on/Roll off passenger ferry and works as a freight vehicle transport with passenger accommodation.
Staying in Majuli: The Homestay Experience!
During my latest visit, I stayed in one of the island’s many homestays. These lodgings offer more than just a place to rest—they’re windows into daily life on Majuli. Sharing meals, stories, and laughter with the locals, I found myself immersed in the rhythms of the island. Homestays here aren’t just accommodations; they’re a connection to the people and traditions that make Majuli unique. It’s here that I learned about the rituals, crafts, and dreams that make this island a world apart. Waking up to the gentle sounds of morning prayers from the nearby ‘xatra’, sharing tea with my hosts—every moment felt like a tribute to Majuli’s unpretentious beauty.
The Island of Many Faces:
Majuli is more than just a destination; it’s an experience that lingers. Here, history and spirituality are woven into daily life, and each corner of the island whispers stories of resilience and reverence. During my visits here, I have always left Majuli with a heart fuller and a sense of gratitude for this hidden world, tucked between the currents of the Brahmaputra.
And, the Majuli Raas, signifying the unification of the individual soul with the Higher soul of Lord Krishna through unconditional love, is acted out and danced by the entire island’s populace. It is a lexicon of over 500 years of cultural and artistic contributions of the various ‘Xatras’ and the diverse tribal traditions.
For those yearning for a destination that offers both soul-stirring traditions and nature’s grandeur, Majuli awaits. Whether you’re drawn by the history of its ‘xatras’, the spice of its tribal cuisine, the warmth of its homestays, or the songs of its birds, Majuli promises an unforgettable journey—a reminder that some places in the world are truly timeless.
(All views and opinions are the author’s own.)