Guwahati, the beating heart of Assam, nestled gracefully on the banks of the Brahmaputra, sings a timeless song of history, nature, and culture. This ancient city, a place where the past and present coexist in a harmonious dance, is a blend of myth and reality, urban and natural, the sacred and the everyday. To know Guwahati is to feel the pulse of a civilisation that has endured through the ages, to walk along streets that resonate with the tales of gods and kings, sages and saints.
At dawn, when the first rays of the sun break through the mist-laden skies, the city awakens to the golden light that reflects off the mighty Brahmaputra, a river whose moods are as varied as the people who live by its side. The river is the lifeblood of Guwahati, a symbol of both serenity and power. It has borne witness to centuries of change, from the reign of the Ahoms to the rise of the modern metropolis, always flowing, always constant, like time itself.
The hills that cradle the city rise like sentinels, guarding the secrets of its past. The ancient Kamakhya Temple, perched on Nilachal Hill, is a revered site not only for its religious significance but for its deep-rooted connection to the spiritual essence of Assam. Kamakhya is the goddess who nurtures the land and its people, her presence felt in every corner of Guwahati, from the bustling markets to the quiet riversides. To the devotee, she is the embodiment of life, creation, and renewal; to the city, she is its soul.
Walking through Guwahati, one cannot help but be struck by the juxtaposition of the old and the new. There are the gleaming malls, the cafes that buzz with the energy of youth, and the broad streets filled with the hum of modernity. Yet, around every corner, you are reminded of the city’s rich heritage. Temples, shrines, and monasteries dot the landscape, each telling its own story of faith and tradition. The Umananda Temple, set on the smallest river island in the world, whispers tales of Lord Shiva amidst the tranquil surroundings of the Brahmaputra’s embrace. It is a city where the divine and the human are ever in conversation.
But Guwahati is not just a city of temples and history. It is a vibrant, living entity, a place of everyday joys and struggles. The markets of Fancy Bazaar, teeming with life, offer a sensory overload of colors, sounds, and scents. Here, the old Assamese women sell their wares beside young traders from far-flung parts of the country, symbolising the cosmopolitan heart of the city. The laughter of children, the ringing of temple bells, the chants of monks, and the calls of street vendors all mix to create a symphony that is uniquely Guwahati.
Nature is ever-present in Guwahati. The lush greenery of the surrounding hills and the calm waters of the Brahmaputra provide a welcome contrast to the hustle and bustle of urban life. The Assam State Zoo, located in the heart of the city, offers a glimpse into the rich biodiversity of the region, while the many parks and gardens provide spaces for reflection and relaxation. In Guwahati, you are never far from nature, from the song of birds in the early morning to the soothing sound of the river at night.
As the sun sets, the city takes on a different hue. The lights of the Saraighat Bridge sparkle on the dark waters of the Brahmaputra, a reminder of the city’s connection to the rest of India and the world. The streets come alive with people, as the scent of street food – the spicy aroma of pithas and the sizzle of fish fry – fills the air. Guwahati is a city that never sleeps, its energy as boundless as the river that flows beside it.
To speak of Guwahati is to speak of its people – warm, resilient, and deeply connected to their roots. The spirit of Assam, with its rich cultural tapestry of dance, music, and art, is alive in every street and every home. The Bihu dances that light up the festival season, the lilting sounds of the dhol and pepa, and the vibrant colors of traditional Assamese attire all reflect the deep pride that the people of Guwahati take in their heritage.
Guwahati is not just a city; it is an experience, a journey through time and space. It is a place where the ancient and the modern, the sacred and the everyday, exist in perfect harmony. It is a city that welcomes all, with the warmth of a friend and the grace of a host. Guwahati, with its rivers, hills, temples, and markets, is a living ode to the spirit of Assam, a song that will continue to be sung for generations to come.
Only if everything was so hunky dory with Guwahati! The blue hills bleed red while the red river has gone dirty grey as the city battles with floods, maddening traffic in the concrete jungle, the lost greens and open spaces, the flowering trees with their soothing shade lost to ‘development’ and above all the intimate society sharing happiness and grief together, vanishing into the blue. Guwahati is a lost paradise today, but must be retrieved. After all it’s our city.
[The writer was a member of the IAS and served the Government of Assam in various capacities from 1980 to 2016. He has also authored the books- The Heart Left Behind, Guwahati-Tale of the City, Whiff of Change and The Boatmen of the River (translation).]