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Opinion | Khar Khua Axomiya: The Alkaline Wonder Of Assamese Cuisine

Ah, Khar! A name that might not ring a bell outside Assam, but for those familiar with Assamese cuisine, it's a treasure trove of history, tradition, and an interesting twist of science. Let’s delve into the quirky, alkaline world of Khar— a dish that can raise eyebrows, and apparently, your pH levels!

 

Khar, a traditional Assamese dish, is an alkaline solution that feels more like a magical elixir when considering its varied uses in cooking, health, and even hygiene. Made from the ashes of dried banana peels, stems, or even water hyacinth, Khar is not just a seasoning but a potion steeped in heritage. Its base, the Musa balbisiana or "Bhim Kol", is a wild, heavily seeded banana variety tamed over centuries by the Assamese people. This banana variety produces the finest Khar, which has been used not only to season dishes but to cure ailments, preserve food, and, at one point, even to ward off parasitic worms. Talk about a multi-tasker!

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Khar is to Assamese cuisine what a Swiss Army knife is to the outdoorsman. You can make a dish, treat an ailment, and maybe even clean your hands—all with one ingredient! While this versatility sounds impressive, you might want to heed the advice of some doctors and local culinary experts who caution about its alkaline nature. After all, a food item that can treat digestive disorders might also mess with your body’s pH if overconsumed. A wise scientist once said, "Balance is the key—be it in life, chemistry, or khar."

This leads us to an interesting scientific tangent: the pH of the human body. The human body is a delicate system, constantly balancing between acidic and alkaline states. According to experts like Dr. Otto Warburg, a renowned biochemist, "disease cannot survive in an alkaline environment." It's a fascinating claim that makes one ponder how traditional foods like khar may have inadvertently aligned with modern health principles. The pH of khar itself ranges from a zesty 10.35 to a sizzling 13.0, meaning it has more alkalinity than your average household cleaner. Yet, when used in moderation, it can help balance the stomach’s acidity, making it a natural antacid.

Historically, Khar was believed to be a medicinal wonder by the Assamese people. In fact, there’s a long-standing tradition of serving Khar as the very first dish in a meal. This ritual wasn’t just about food; it was about cleansing the stomach and prepping the digestive system for what was to come. Think of it as an ancient form of a detox diet but without the Instagram influencers. One popular dish, Omitar Khar, is made using raw papaya and khar, giving the stomach a gentle wake-up call while subtly balancing the meal's acidity.

When speaking of banana peels and stems, most of us imagine these parts of the plant landing in the compost bin or worse, a slapstick banana-peel slip scene. However, the Assamese have turned this waste into culinary gold. The ashes of these banana parts, mixed with water to create Khar, are packed with alkaline minerals like potassium, sodium, and calcium, making it a nutritious addition. And here’s where it gets even more intriguing. Studies have shown that Khar’s potassium content can help regulate high blood pressure. So, while salt might be the villain in modern diets, Khar, made from banana peels, becomes the hero. It’s essentially the Superman of condiments—protecting you from hypertension while adding flavor to your dal.

But of course, every hero has its kryptonite. Excessive use of highly alkaline foods like khar has been linked to certain health risks. One study found that a high intake of khar might increase the risk of esophageal cancer. This sobering note serves as a reminder that even natural remedies require moderation. So, perhaps it's best not to go overboard with this alkaline ambrosia.

The preparation of Khar is a process that involves patience, technique, and perhaps a little bit of magic. First, the banana peels are dried in the sun until every trace of moisture has evaporated. Then, the dried material is burned into ash, which is filtered with water, and the resultant liquid is Khar. This process can take days, but the result is worth every bit of effort.

Beyond its culinary uses, Khar was historically used as a soap and shampoo in Assamese villages. Women would use it to cleanse their hair, which, according to folklore, resulted in luscious, long tresses. Imagine that: a single ingredient that can season your curry and double as a shampoo. No wonder Khar holds such a special place in the hearts of Assamese people!

In a remarkable fusion of tradition and innovation, MasterChef Vikas Khanna presented the traditional Assamese dish khar at a prestigious dinner for Pope Francis. By showcasing this humble dish in such a grand setting, Khanna honoured the rich cultural heritage of Assam. 

In conclusion, khar is not just a food additive. It’s a reflection of Assamese culture, resilience, and culinary ingenuity. From its humble origins as an alkaline filtrate to its modern-day reputation as a health-boosting, flavour-enhancing wonder, Khar remains deeply rooted in tradition while aligning with scientific understanding. And while there are risks to overindulging in this alkaline superstar, its benefits, when used in moderation, are undeniable. Whether it's balancing your stomach’s pH, seasoning a traditional dish, or simply acting as a conversation starter at the dinner table, Khar will always have a place in Assam’s culinary legacy. As the ancient Assamese saying goes, “The simplest of ingredients, when respected, become the heart of the meal.” Khar, the alkaline treasure of Assam, embodies this sentiment beautifully, reflecting not only the culinary genius of the region but also the deep connection between food, health, and heritage.

 

(The writer is a Senior Research Fellow at NIFTEM -TLO Guwahati)

 

 

 

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