By embracing these traditional rice varieties, Assam can celebrate its past while paving the way for a sustainable and culturally enriched future
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As Magh or Bhogali Bihu draws near, the aroma of Assamese traditional delicacies fills the air. For the Assamese community, the celebration of harvest is incomplete without indulging in jolpan, a wholesome mix of curd, milk, jaggery, and rice varieties like bora saul (sticky rice), sira (flattened rice), and muri (puffed rice). Similarly, rice becomes the centrepiece for preparing numerous types of pithas (rice cakes).
Yet, while these treats are cherished on festive days, few pause to consider the origins of these delicacies. Behind every grain lies a legacy of tradition, painstaking effort, and scientific understanding. To uncover the story behind Assam’s unique rice varieties and their current state, GPlus spoke to Lekha Jyoti Borah, a scientist at the Assam Rice Research Institute in Titabar.
Why Only Bora Saul for Pithas?
According to Borah, the preference for bora saul when preparing pithas is far from arbitrary. “Bora saul contains high levels of amylopectin, a starch that provides its characteristic stickiness and cohesive texture when cooked,” she explained. This property allows the rice to be moulded into intricate shapes without crumbling and helps it absorb the flavours of coconut, jaggery, sesame seeds, and other ingredients effectively. “This is what makes pithas so delectable and aromatic,” she added.
The Craft of Traditional Rice Products
The journey of Assam’s traditional rice products from paddy to plate involves techniques steeped in tradition. Each variety, whether it is seera (flattened rice), xandoh guri (roasted rice flour), or aakhoi (puffed rice), requires a unique method of preparation:
1. Making Seera (Flattened Rice):
- Paddy is partially parboiled, ensuring the husk doesn’t split.
- The semi-dried paddy is roasted and then flattened using traditional wooden pestles in a dheki.
- Modern techniques include artificial drying and roller flattening.
2. Preparing Xandoh Guri (Roasted Rice Flour):
- Paddy undergoes double parboiling, followed by drying and milling.
- After soaking the milled rice in salt water and drying it, the rice is roasted and ground into flour.
- “Chakuwa saul is the preferred variety as it yields tastier flour,” Borah noted.
3. Crafting Pitha Guri (Rice Flour for Pithas):
- Regular rice varieties are soaked, drained, ground, and then dried in the sun.
- The dried flour is lightly roasted to enhance its flavour and can be consumed with milk, sugar, or jaggery.
4. Producing Aakhoi (Puffed Rice):
- Fresh riverbed sand is heated, and dried paddy is added in small quantities.
- The sand’s heat causes the rice to puff, after which it is sieved and the husk removed.
5. Making Komal Saul (Soft Rice):
- This process requires chakuwa saul, which is parboiled twice, dried, and milled.
- The rice is consumed after soaking it for an hour, often with cream, curd, and jaggery.
Challenges to Sustaining Traditional Rice
Despite the culinary and cultural significance of these rice products, their production is facing a steady decline regionally. Borah highlighted several factors contributing to this:
1. Modernisation and Changing Food Habits:
Urbanisation and globalisation have shifted consumer preferences toward convenience foods, leading to reduced demand for traditional products.
2. Labour-Intensive Processes:
The intricate preparation methods require time and skill, which are becoming scarce. The younger generation is often unwilling to engage in these labour-intensive activities.
3. Low Yields and High Costs:
Varieties like bora saul and komal saul have low yields—1 to 1.5 tons per hectare—and are prone to lodging. This makes them less appealing to farmers, who prefer high-yielding crops.
4. Urbanisation’s Impact:
Agricultural lands are being converted for residential and commercial use. Many farmers have also migrated to urban areas in search of better-paying jobs, leaving fewer people to cultivate traditional crops.
Realising the cultural and ecological importance of these traditional varieties, institutions like the Assam Agricultural University (AAU) have taken steps to conserve and promote them. The AAU’s Assam Rice Research Institute has preserved 2,785 local landraces, including 237 bora saul, 23 chakuwa saul, and 228 red rice varieties.
Additionally, initiatives like One District, One Product have been launched to encourage the commercial production of indigenous varieties. For instance, Sivasagar district has been designated for producing the traditional red kernel bao rice. Farmers are also being linked to e-marketing platforms like ONDC, Flipkart, and Amazon to expand their reach.
Despite these efforts, there is a noticeable shift in Assamese farmers’ cultivation practices. “Farmers are increasingly moving away from traditional rice varieties to focus on high-yielding or cash crops like tea, turmeric, ginger, and fruits,” Borah noted. These crops not only promise higher returns but also cater to both domestic and international markets.
Interestingly, traces of rice’s cultural significance can be found in ancient Assamese monuments. Historical evidence suggests the existence of rice-based products beyond grains, underscoring their long-standing role in the region’s food culture. However, modernisation has led to the erosion of these traditions.
Factors Behind This Decline Include:
- Shifting food preferences toward packaged and fast foods.
- Loss of traditional knowledge as older generations fail to pass down skills.
- Limited market demand for traditional products in a competitive food industry.
- Economic challenges due to the labour-intensive nature of production.
Beyond Food: Other Uses of Traditional Rice
The value of Assam’s traditional rice varieties goes beyond their role as food.
1. Cultural Significance:
Traditional rice varieties are integral to Assamese identity and play a key role in social and religious ceremonies.
2. Ecological Resilience:
Many indigenous varieties possess traits like drought tolerance and pest resistance, making them suitable for breeding climate-resilient crops.
3. Commercial Potential:
Traditional rice can be used to create artisanal flour, organic rice products, and other high-value goods.
To ensure the survival of Assam’s traditional rice varieties, a collective effort is needed. Borah emphasised the importance of raising awareness about the nutritional and cultural value of these varieties. Government policies, coupled with grassroots initiatives, can help revive interest in cultivating and consuming these rice products.
As Magh Bihu approaches, perhaps it is time to not only enjoy jolpan and pithas, but also reflect on the traditions and stories behind them. Each grain of bora saul or komal saul carries with it the essence of Assam’s rich heritage—a heritage worth preserving for future generations.