Nestled in a corner of the North East of India, on the river Brahmaputra is one of the largest freshwater islands in the world called ‘Majuli’ an admixture of culture, ‘Satras’, dance dramas, celibate disciples, a laic lifestyle; upholding the essence of the Assamese culture.
Although, time has moved on and most of the district towns in the North East have transformed into mini metropolises, not so the Island of ‘Majuli’ Arrive at Guwahati, from where you can either fly or drive down to Jorhat on the south bank of the Brahmaputra river or Lakhimpur on the north bank. Board the ferry at Niamatighat in Jorhat for an hour and forty-five minutes motorboat ride on the river to Kamalabari on the island. If lucky, you sight occasional freshwater dolphins and in winter swarm of migratory birds. No matter what hour of the day, the crossings are always exciting as you intermingle with the residents ferrying necessities to and fro from their island home.
Season permitting you can also cross the river Subansiri from Lakhimpur to get to the island, a shorter crossing but a more tedious road journey. Alighting from the boat you step into a picture-perfect world of neatly tended houses, seasonal birds, tropical flowers and a horizon of rice fields. It is an introduction to the rural simplicity.
The mornings are early and crisp, progressing from the haze enshrouded dawn to the lighting of the cooking fires, the tinkling of cow bells, the barking of dogs or the exciting laughter of children. The day advances into sounds of utensils and clicking of home looms, the chirping of birds or the occasional snort of the buffalos tilling the land.
The dusk is early and soothing. It is as though, the island over the years has developed its own charismatic moods. Majuli is home to some of the better known ‘Satras’ established by the propagators of the Assamese school ‘Neo-Vaishnavism’, Shankerdev, Madhavdeva, Damodardev, in the 15th and 16th century and governed today by “goxain iswars”, the chief propagator. The Satras are famed not for their grandeur but for their simplicity.
During the renaissance of organized religion in India, Shankerdev (1449-1568) was born in Assam. He propagated his Philosophy so successfully through a dance-drama routine, that at one time the whole of the Brahmaputra valley and its adjacent areas turned to Vaishnavism; be it the King or it's ethnic residents. Shankerdev dissipated the caste system and unified all. His celibate disciples, specially groomed in the essence of the religion carried the message forward and it’s practices by means of schools run by the priests themselves.
Besides religion, these schools also imparted education and training in the arts and the ethics of life. The teachers were the practicing priests; hence the facilities were built around the local temple for convenience. At one time there were over a 100 ‘Satras’ in Majuli of which only 22 exist today the most prominent ones being, Dakhinpat, Aunieity, Kamalabari, Benganaati, Samuguri.
These institutions are also custodians of the artifacts, jewellery, coinage, gifts from overseas, and other historical memorabilia. Each one holds on to a collection worth a museum. Some of the most interesting collection is the ‘Bhagwat’ and dance movements hand painted on scrolls, parchment paper, even on ivory slats. A must-see heritage of the Assamese people.
The materialistic 21st. century life is pervading the old-world charm, but fortunately, in greater measure, the ethical culture; the essence of Majuli, prevails. Crops, in majority, are grown on the loess brought by the floods with minimal addition of chemicals, houses are built with bio-recyclable materials and fresh water is available aplenty. The ponds and rivers are teeming with fish the island is a tropical jungle and most of its trees serve a purpose, there is even a ‘sar gos’ whose leaves and trunk serve as a natural fertilizer. All the animals, brought to the island for a purpose, serve the populace well, assisting their daily chores or providing nourishment.
It is also home to numerous species of migratory birds in winter, sheltering in gay abandon, flocking the sky at dawn and dusk.
Culture is the essence of all communities, so predominant in Majuli. Regardless of its origin, all festivals are celebrated with great abandon that the whole island comes alive with smiling faces, celebration attire, dancing, singing, feasting, and camaraderie all-over. It is one place where the various ethnic cultures- the Mishings, Deoris, Assamese, Kachari, Nepali, Kumar Haris, Kaibartas living in harmony, having evolved their own refinement; some call it the ‘Majulian culture’.
It is a remarkable experience to watch the sowing of crops, the fishing in ponds, the extensive use of Banana, Bamboo, Cane; in food and in furniture, the traditional designs’ being woven at the home looms, the intricacies of producing the silk and cotton strands domestically. Experience the old-world charm of attending to the household chores, sharing the warmth of the cooking hearth, the grinding wheels of the husking mills.
Taste the local cuisine, brew and desserts, observe the young ‘Bhagats’ training in their dance, singing and ‘Naam-kirtan’ routine. witness the production of the ‘Bhagavat’ opera during the festival of ‘Raas’ when the whole island turns into a stage and everyone in ‘Majuli’ gets involved in the production of a most spectacular display of religious festivity seen anywhere in the World.
(The author has worked as a regional director for a British company for all the countries in the Pacific Rim. He is currently based in Melbourne, Australia. The views expressed in the article are his own.)
