Bhogali Bihu, a vibrant celebration in Assam, transforms the markets of Guwahati into a sensory delight. As the festival approaches, the air is filled with the enticing aroma of traditional delights – larus, pithas, rice, jaggery, rice flour, flattened rice, puffed rice, curd, and cream. This festive spread not only reflects the rich agricultural bounty of the region but also showcases the culinary traditions deeply rooted in Assamese culture.
In the rustic charm of Assam's villages, the process of making pithas is a ritualistic affair. Locals cultivate rice with care, grind it using dhekis, and then skillfully craft these grains into flavorful pithas. This hands-on approach adds an authentic touch to Bhogali Bihu, connecting communities with their agricultural heritage.
Pithas, the heart and soul of the festival, come in a delightful array of flavours. There's the nutty richness of Til (sesame) Pitha, the tropical sweetness of Narikol (coconut) Pitha, the fragrant Tekeli Pitha, the wholesome Ghila Pitha, the cone-shaped Sunga Pitha, the delicate Kholasapori Pitha, the light Lau (gourd) Pitha, and the intricately designed Kolpat Pitha. These culinary creations showcase the diversity and creativity embedded in Assamese cuisine, making Bhogali Bihu a gastronomic journey.
Beyond pithas, the festival boasts other culinary gems. Sandoh Guri, a creation with rice flour, becomes a delightful treat when paired with milk or curd, sweetened with jaggery or sugar. Maah Korai, prepared with black sesame seeds, Bora Saul, and gram, is seasoned with mustard oil, ginger, and salt. Sticky rice or Bora Saul, soaked overnight, is savoured with curd/cream and jaggery, or enjoyed with mustard oil and Aloo Pitika (mashed potato).
While the rural landscape cherishes the handmade aspect of these delicacies, urban areas like Guwahati bring forth a different narrative. The bustling city life often leaves little time for the elaborate preparation of pithas and larus. Here, the markets become a bridge between tradition and convenience, offering readymade pithas and larus crafted by skilled hands in villages. These items flood the markets a week before Bihu, with prices starting at an affordable Rs 50.
A seller from Rangia said, “The cost of pitha starts from Rs 50. The laru costs Rs 100, Rs 50. The larus that are available here are the guror laru, tilor laru, narikolor laru. The prices have not changed. I come here every year from Rangia.”
Whereas a customer said, “If you ask me my favourite pitha, I cannot name one. From an early age, we are used to eating pithas and larus, so I can’t name just one. But this year, the prices have gone up. I believe the government should regulate the prices of Bihu items as well. The jaggery costs Rs 120, whereas it’s cheaper in our local stores. So this should be looked at.”
Jaggery, a crucial ingredient, comes in two varieties – date jaggery priced at Rs 100 and sugarcane jaggery at Rs 120. The most essential item, rice, takes different forms with Bora Saul and "kumol saul" being the preferred choices. This rice, accompanied by doi (curd), cream, and jaggery, creates the quintessential "jolpan," a central part of Bhogali Bihu feasting.
When we asked which is the most popular pitha, a person said, “People come searching for pitha mostly. Til pitha has a big fan base along with narikolor laru.”
For city dwellers who may find it challenging to build traditional bhelaghors or mejis, the markets offer a solution. Sellers from different parts of Assam bring bhelaghors and mejis of various sizes, with prices depending on their dimensions. Walls for bhelaghars, known as "kheror ber," are also available, enabling individuals to construct their own festive structures.
Noteworthy markets in Guwahati, including the Khanapara market, Silpukhuri market, Ganeshguri market, and various Bhogali melas, become bustling hubs during the festive season. The lively atmosphere is a blend of the enticing aroma of traditional delicacies, vibrant colours, and the buzz of enthusiastic shoppers.
One shopkeeper who has a stall at Khanapara said, “We have pitha, nimki, saul, khando sirar laru, tilor laru, narikolor laru, murir laru, gur. We don’t have any new items; the items that were available earlier are still there, and we prepare them at our homes. We regularly make them fresh. The til, khando, narikol are bought beforehand. Things that can be spoiled are bought earlier, but the items that have a chance of getting bad are prepared regularly.”
A customer who was buying a few said, “I came to buy saul, til, gur, narikol. We prepare pithas at our homes. I help my mother to prepare them every year. I purchase these items from Khanapara market. The prices are quite good as well.”
The eve of the festival, Uruka, holds its own significance. Men come together to construct small cottages (Bhelaghars) with hay, setting the stage for the Uruka feast. Family members gather around bonfires, engaging in games and dancing to folk music. The following morning, they awaken to light the Meji—a towering structure made of inflammable hay and twigs—offering prayers to the God of fire.
In the vibrant tapestry of Bhogali Bihu, the markets of Guwahati play a pivotal role. They serve as conduits, ensuring that the rich traditions and flavors of the festival are accessible to all, even in the fast-paced urban landscape, where time is a precious commodity.