The yearly wait for the people of Assam towards the elaborate feast and traditional bonfire (Meji) comes to an end, as the season of harvest approaches. This marks the onset of the Magh season and the much-awaited festival of Magh Bihu.
Magh Bihu, also known as Bhogali Bihu, is a harvest festival celebrated with great fervour in the northeastern state of Assam, India.
The festival is marked by feasts and bonfires. A bonfire (Meji) is lit for the ceremonial conclusion and prayer to the God of Fire.
People construct makeshift huts, known as Meji and Bhelaghar, from bamboo, leaves, and thatch, and in Bhelaghar they eat the food prepared for the feast and then burn the huts the next morning.
The celebrations also feature traditional Assamese games such as tekeli bhonga (pot-breaking), buffalo fighting, and bulbul fights.
Pithas, traditional Assamese sweets, play a central role in these celebrations.
These delicacies are prepared using locally available ingredients, reflecting the rich agricultural heritage of the region.
Pithas have been an obligatory part of Bihu, but especially Magh Bihu where feast and food after the harvest are the missing pieces of the puzzle.
Pitha is a special class of rice preparation generally made only on special occasions like Bihu.
Rice, that too of various kinds is an important ingredient of pithas.
Assamese pithas are often made from bora saul, a special kind of glutinous rice, or xaali saul, or sun-dried rice.
Historically, these sweets have been made using white rice, coconut, jaggery, and other locally sourced ingredients.
Pithas are often also filled with coconut, sesame, or jaggery with rice as the main item, making these an exotic and delectable treat for Bihu.
The traditional pithas prepared during Magh Bihu are diverse, ranging from the famous til pitha (sesame seeds and jaggery stuffed rice cake) to Narikolor Laru (coconut laddoo) and ghila pitha (fried rice dumplings).
Tekeli pitha, Kachi pitha, and Sunga pithas are also some of the pithas which are widely made and consumed by the population in Assam, during Magh bihu.
However, in recent years, there has been a notable shift in the choice of ingredients for making these pithas, with black rice gaining prominence.
Now you may ask, what is Black Rice?
Black Aromatic Rice locally named Chak-hao is well known for its attractive colour and aromatic flavour and considered one of the richest sources of anthocyanin found among food grain products apart from its optimal content of vitamins, minerals, fibre, proteins, and many other nutrients.
It is a scented glutinous rice black in colour produced in Manipur for centuries.
However, this is not to be confused with the Kola Bora saul (Black Sticky Rice) which is a variety of glutinous rice found in Assam, used specifically during traditional occasions like Bihu.
On such occasions, this variety of rice is eaten with served with curd, jaggery, and cream.
The Black Rice also locally known as Chak Hao is most commonly eaten as kheer in Manipur and is also used in a variety of other dishes.
This recent culinary revolution of incorporation of black rice in making pithas not only adds a unique twist to traditional recipes but also brings attention to the nutritional benefits of black rice.
Talking to GPlus, Malati Devi, a resident of Panikhaiti said, “Growing up and with generations changing over time, we have seen pithas take various shapes and in different styles. But, the essence of it has not changed over the years. I see my grandchildren talk about the kola saul being used nowadays in making pithas, which definitely seems innovative and healthy.”
Black rice, in Assam, initially was brought in from Manipur.
But, over the years now it has been traditionally grown and consumed, although it is only in recent times that it has gained recognition beyond local households.
Black rice gets its name from its dark purple-black color, which is due to the presence of anthocyanins, powerful antioxidants also found in blueberries and blackberries.
The incorporation of black rice into Magh Bihu pithas has sparked creativity among Assamese home cooks and professional chefs alike.
Traditional recipes have been adapted to include black rice, resulting in a delightful fusion of flavors and textures.
Some innovative black rice pithas gaining popularity include:
Black Rice Til Pitha: A twist on the classic sesame and jaggery-stuffed rice cake, black rice adds a nutty flavor and a striking color to this beloved Bihu treat.
Black Rice Laru: By substituting white rice with black rice in coconut laddoos, a visually appealing and nutritionally enhanced version of narikolor laru has emerged.
Black Rice Ghila Pitha: Fried rice dumplings, a staple during Magh Bihu, now come with added nutritional benefits and a unique appearance when prepared with black rice.
Black Rice Kheer: Black rice kheer or payas, a creamy rice pudding, is another delightful creation that combines the traditional flavors of Assamese desserts with the goodness of black rice.
Black Rice Tekeli pitha: This is a Black Rice cake with a coconut filling. Made to be moist, tender, and delicious, this simple, gluten-free,dairy-free steamed rice cake is made with freshly ground black rice flour, coconut, and sugar.
Sunga Pitha made with Black Rice: This type of rice cake is made by wrapping black rice powder and sugar paste in banana leaves, stuffing it in hollowed-out pieces of bamboo, and roasting it over a wood fire. This is a tube-shaped cake cut into pieces and then served generally with hot milk.
In a conversation with GPlus, Holodhar Kalita, a pitha seller from Ganeshguri said, “The market is now seeing an upsurge in these pithas which are made from kola saul. These are more widely available now and their demand during the Bihus is also quite high. Because with changing times people also want to try something exotic, which is healthy as well as delicious.”
The use of black rice in Magh Bihu pithas is not just a culinary trend, it also highlights the health benefits of this unique grain.
Black rice is rich in fibre, vitamins, and minerals. It contains more antioxidants than white or brown rice, making it a healthier choice.
The anthocyanins present in black rice are known for their anti-inflammatory properties and potential health benefits, making it a valuable addition to the traditional festive menu.
The shift towards using black rice in Magh Bihu pithas goes beyond individual kitchens as it has created a ripple effect in local communities.
Farmers and agriculturalists are seeing increased demand for black rice, providing economic opportunities for those involved in its cultivation.
Additionally, the focus on traditional ingredients and the nutritional value of black rice has raised awareness about the importance of preserving indigenous grains and promoting a healthy lifestyle.
The incorporation of black rice into Magh Bihu pithas has also sparked interest among food enthusiasts and tourists.
Culinary tourism in Assam has also seen a boost as people are eager to experience the unique flavors and cultural significance of these innovative black rice pithas.
This culinary trend has not only contributed to the local economy but has also become a means of cultural exchange, as Assamese cuisine gains recognition on a broader scale.
The evolving tradition of using black rice in Magh Bihu pithas represents a harmonious blend of cultural heritage and culinary innovation.
Beyond its visual appeal and unique taste, black rice brings with it a wealth of nutritional benefits, contributing to a healthier festive menu.
The resurgence of interest in indigenous grains like black rice not only adds a new chapter to Assamese culinary traditions but also fosters economic growth and cultural exchange.
As Magh Bihu celebrations continue to evolve, the humble black rice emerges as a symbol of both tradition and progress in Assam's vibrant culinary landscape to tantalize one’s tastebuds.
After all, isn’t this the real essence of Bhogali Bihu?
(All views and opinions expressed in the article are the author’s own)