Bihu Traditions On Virtual Deathbed Amidst Guwahati's Urbanisation

04:32 PM Jan 11, 2025 | Tina Choudhury

 

Over the years, the traditional practice of making sweet delicacies at home for Bhogali Bihu has been steadily declining

With the arrival of Bhogali Bihu, kitchens in Assam once transformed into hubs of tradition, where family members gathered to prepare pithas and other delicacies with love and care. The aroma of freshly steamed tekeli pitha or bhapot diya pitha wafted through homes, bringing with it a sense of nostalgia and community bonding. But as Guwahati becomes increasingly urbanised, these age-old traditions are now shifting from home kitchens to commercial markets.

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Walking through the streets of Guwahati today, one can see a variety of pithas neatly packaged in plastic packets, displayed on shop shelves and roadside stalls. While these ready-to-eat packets provide convenience for busy urban families, concerns about hygiene, safety, and the loss of tradition loom large.

“Earlier, making pithas was an integral part of Assamese households during Bihu. Now, it’s mostly available in the market, and fewer people bother making it at home,” said a 75-year-old resident of Uzanbazar while speaking to GPlus. He lamented how a once-intimate tradition has now become a business opportunity, with many families opting to buy packaged pithas instead of preparing them at home.

“It is sad to see our traditions fading. Making pithas was a ritual that connected us with our roots. Today, it is all about buying ready-made packets,” shared Nilima Bora, an 82-year-old woman from Panbazar.

“In our time, Bihu meant the whole family coming together to make pithas. Now, everything comes from the market. The younger generation no longer values the joy of homemade food,” said a 78-year-old woman from Ganeshguri while talking to GPlus.

The trend has given rise to a booming cottage industry. Numerous small businesses and self-help groups have taken up the task of making and selling these traditional treats.

While this shift has empowered many, particularly women in rural areas, it has also raised concerns about hygiene and food safety, especially since many of these products are sold without proper regulation.

The Food Safety and Standards Authority of India (FSSAI) has made it mandatory for businesses selling edible items to register and obtain licenses.

However, during a survey conducted by GPlus in various shops across Guwahati, it was found that many vendors selling packaged pithas lacked FSSAI certification.

“Several of these businesses are operating without proper licenses. We have issued notices and conducted awareness drives, but compliance remains a challenge,” said a senior official from the Food Safety Department. He acknowledged the rise of small-scale enterprises involved in the pitha business but emphasised the importance of maintaining hygiene and safety standards.

To address these concerns, the department, in collaboration with FSSAI-approved partners, has been conducting training sessions on Advanced FoSTaC (Food Safety Training and Certification). These sessions aim to educate vendors about hygiene, safe food handling practices, and the need for proper registration.

“Many vendors are unaware of the regulations. Through training, we are trying to ensure that they understand the importance of cleanliness and safety. We want them to take pride in maintaining the authenticity of these traditional delicacies while adhering to modern safety norms,” added the official.

Similarly, an official from the Assam Horticulture Department expressed concern about how commercialisation has distanced the delicacies from their cultural roots. “It is unfortunate that most of the vendors selling pithas in Guwahati today are non-Assamese. They have learned the art of making these pithas, while many Assamese families have stopped the practice altogether,” he said.

He further pointed out that commercialisation, while providing employment opportunities, has diluted the cultural essence of Bhogali Bihu. “Earlier, pithas were made at home with family members participating in the process. Now, people just buy them from shops. The emotional and cultural connection is being lost,” he remarked.

One of the most glaring issues with the commercialisation of pithas is the use of plastic packaging. Traditionally, pithas were wrapped in banana leaves or muslin cloth, which added to their flavour and authenticity. However, modern packaged pithas come in plastic wrappers, raising concerns about environmental impact and food safety.

“Plastic packets are cheap and convenient, but they are not eco-friendly. Moreover, if the plastic used isn’t food-grade, it can pose health risks,” warned another food safety official. He urged vendors to explore sustainable alternatives for packaging, such as biodegradable materials, to preserve both the environment and the traditional charm of these delicacies.

Consumers, too, play a crucial role in ensuring the safety and authenticity of the pithas they buy. The Food Safety Department urges buyers to look for FSSAI certification while purchasing packaged pithas. “If consumers demand better hygiene and regulation, vendors will be compelled to improve their practices,” said another food safety official.

At the same time, he encouraged families to revive the tradition of homemade pithas. “Making pithas at home isn’t just about food; it’s about bonding, celebrating our culture, and passing down traditions to future generations. We need to bring back that spirit,” he added.

While commercialisation has made traditional Assamese delicacies more accessible, it has also raised concerns about hygiene, safety, and the erosion of cultural values. The challenge is to ensure that modern convenience does not overshadow the essence of these age-old traditions.

In the end, the question remains—can Guwahati strike a balance between convenience and tradition, ensuring that Bhogali Bihu doesn’t lose its essence to commercialisation? Only time will tell, but with collective effort and awareness, there is hope for a revival of this cherished practice.